to make sure this fits.
20 Square Foot Under Tile Heating Mat, Mat is 20″ Wide x 12′ Long, 120 Volts
Highest Quality Heating Cable, Twisted Pair for Zero EMF, Single Cold Lead, Very Thin
Mesh can be cut (do not cut wire) to heat other shapes.
Includes Honeywell/Aube Digital Floor Sensing Thermostat with Floor Sensor Wire(model TH115-AF-120S)
UL LISTED for USA and Canada.
Electric Floor Warming System used to heat tile and other types of flooring. The system is designed to heat the designated square footage when installed in mortar under ceramic or porcelain tile, stone or brick floors, as well as engineered wood, vinyl, laminate, or carpet floor coverings. The heating mat is simply laid out on the floor in the area you want to heat prior to floor installation. The heating element is less than 1/8″ thick, so the rise in flooring height is negligible. This system is BRAND NEW and manufactured by Warming Systems Inc. which offers a âLife of the Floorâ Warranty on its product. The wire is pre-spaced at 3″.
|Package Dimensions||20.2 x 5.9 x 5.5 inches|
|Item Weight||3.42 pounds|
|Shipping Weight||3.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)|
|Manufacturer||Warming Systems Inc.|
|Item model number||20-mat120-kt|
47 customer reviews
4.6 out of 5 stars
|Best Sellers Rank||
#29,267 in Patio, Lawn & Garden (See Top 100 in Patio, Lawn & Garden)
Product Warranty: For warranty information about this product, please click here
December 28, 2013
get a reliable Volt ohm meter. I used a fluke, but any decent one will do. Measure the resistance. (Touch the ends of the wires with the black and red leads from the multi-meter while on the setting that looks like a horseshoe). Just note the number. You don’t have to do anything except make sure the wires don’t get damaged. (If they do get damaged, the number will change when you check it again later). I wrote the number down on the drywall behind the medicine cabinet, so I could always retrieve it if needed. (make sure you get the number for the heat cord AND temperature sensor)
Here is the second issue that came up often on the web research I did. You have to bury the mat under a coat of thin set mortar (tile mortar). People complained that the mat would rise to the surface and create problems when they tried to lay down the tile. So here is where I tried something new. I found a product that 3M makes for gluing corner bead on walls when you drywall. I know the adhesive has to be strong, so I bought a bottle of that and sprayed the floor where the mat would sit. I also sprayed the back of the mat. The adhesive was so good, that it made ripping sounds on the soles of my shoes when i would walk in the area after I was done. One more note. The kit comes with a thermocouple. (What is that you say? It’s a little temperature sensor attached to a couple wires. you just install that in the middle between two heat cords in the floor and run the wires to the junction box where you install the thermostat). It’s not pre-installed so you can place it in the best spot for your particular floor.
I also used the Schluter Ditra decoupling membrane on the floor. (My substrate was concrete by the way, not cement board or plywood). I did the Ditra as I did the mortar for the radiant heat. I am a big fan of modified mortar knowing how well it adheres so I used that under the Ditra. I learned that isn’t recommended, but in retrospect I don’t know why. It worked great. (They said it wouldn’t cure, that it might take weeks to cure, but I was in no hurry. It seemed to be rock solid in a couple days). I used a 3/8 notched trowel for the first step. I figure more mortar is better than too little. MAKE SURE you don’t damage the radiant heat cord. That sounds like no big deal, but it’s easy to do. The tendency is to bang the side of the trowel on the floor to knock the excess mortar off of it. If you do that on the cord you could break the insulation. I found I did it 3-5 times without thinking. (trust me, its easy to forget when you are in the moment) luckily, I did not hit the cord.
I used flexible conduit in the wall to run the heat cord to the junction box (It says to make sure you use metal conduit). I wish I had used a bigger rigid conduit. The flexible stuff I used was barely big enough to pull the wires through and almost messed up the job. After that, just install the tile. Wait a couple weeks and power everything up. ( The only part I am leaving out is that you have to install a double gang box with a single gang box reducer on it for the thermostat in the wall. The double gang box gives you plenty of space to stuff wires and the single gang box reducer holds the thermostat). I guess I also assumed you know the whole unit will need a 110 volt GFCI power source. I just used the extra leads on my GFCI bathroom outlet. Depending on the amount of mats you use you may need some real amperage, but for this unit I used a single 15 amp breaker in the main power box for the house.
We waited a few weeks for everything to settle checked the resistance in the wires. (Both the thermocouple and the heat mat cord to make sure the numbers hadn’t changed). and powered everything up. It took almost 48 hours for the floor to heat. ( I was pretty nervous when the floor didn’t get warm right away, but after web scouring I found that was normal). Concrete is quite a heat sink, but heat can only go up, so eventually the floor got warm and it’s something I will be happy I did for the rest of the life of the bathroom.
One more note if you aren’t too bored yet. I used epoxy grout for the first time. I used spektra lock. I was nervous about it, not knowing if I was going to ruin the tile, (many people said it’s difficult to clean off the tiles when applied) but if you follow the directions, it was very easy to do and NEVER needs sealing. (you just need vinegar and hot clean water). This grout is the stuff they use on tile floors in commercial kitchens for stain and chemical resistance. I’m really happy I used this. I spilled a little water on the floor when I was looking over the tile job and it beaded up on the grout in little spheres. (Yes!) Regular grout is by nature absorbent and you don’t want that in a mildew and mold attraction environment. Another thing you will be happy you spent the extra 40 bucks on.
Thank you so much for your time. I know that was long, but I found that information very difficult to find and I thought I would consolidate it here for you.
December 8, 2014
December 13, 2014
Toss in an extra in-floor temp sensor; it’s cheap and easy while you’re putting it all in. If one fails, you have a back-up in place.
We love the results. We watch a lot of TV and movies downstairs, and it’s so nice to stand on this warm floor that we go to the bathroom more often.
Now, some technical thoughts. This mesh mat design worked pretty good for my layout in a small relatively square room, and it went down faster, but if I had it to do over, I’d use the wire without the mat because I ran kinda short in front of the toilet and it’s not as warm on the feet when I settle down on the throne. This was the best matt size for my dimensions, but loose wires would have made it possible for me to get more uniform placement, primarily in front of the toilet in my project.
Also, I installed the matt, and then poured the self leveling floor. This worked pretty good, but it floated up creating a few high spots. I didn’t want to make another run to Menards and pour another batch of somewhat expensive self leveler, so I thought I could make up the difference in my thin set tile mortar. In hindsight, I should have poured another layer because I had a tough time and wasn’t able to perfectly level a few tiles. Again, using the wire without the matt would have avoided this problem, and, while I thought it would be a pain to hold individual wires in place, I found that carefully using a hot glue gun did a great job of temporarily holding wires where I want them. I think the self leveler would flow better without the matt too.
The thermostat is kinda complicated, but I really like it. Read the directions before you completely install it because there are a few setting preference switches to configure that can only be set with the thermostat disassembled. I like that it has a simple standby switch to save money when you donât want to heat the floor, and they included a mini screwdriver for connecting wires, which is a really thoughtful move.
We love the results, and hopefully this information will help you learn from my experience.