B079R9HBGB

I have purchased several of these lights through the years. I have been using these lights for about 5 years. I will tell you that after about 3 years of use they tend to crack and break at the seam of where you screw the fixture in. I really like the look of the lights and they are fairly inexpensive for what you get. Overall, I am happy with the lights. I have not been able to find anything I like better. I just replace them every few years when they break. 4 stars because I like them, but they are not as durable as I would prefer. They will only last a couple of years in the hot Texas sun, but for the price I can replace them every few years. I will continue to purchase these lights.

Decent outdoor head. Nice thread depth which allows for a gasket and locknut and good angle adjustment. It helps to put a little silicon grease on the o-ring. I discovered that the cover is easy to get off if you just pull out and down (kind of like breaking open a shotgun), instead of twisting and pulling straight out. Either a par20 or R20 fit fine. Like all sealed fixtures of this type the bulb is hard to grasp with the fingers to twist in or out. I like to get some blue painter’s tape or duct tape and make a ” T” shape out of it with the tape stuck to itself forming the vertical part and the top of the “T” being the sticky side of the tape which I stick to the face of the bulb. Makes it real easy! It is a sealed unit, so LED bulbs don’t have the longest lifespan in it. I need to use halogens, so it works great.

I really like these lights. The shroud is difficult to get off as previous comments indicate. After damaging several of these units, I finally found a solution to removing / separating the cowl (lens portion) without damaging the base (bulb portion). The short answer is two 6″ strap wrenches, one on the cowl and one on the base. Here’s some tips that I discovered: 1. Before the first time you push the cowl into the bases, wearing a latex or silicone glove, spread a generous bead of silicone “O-Ring” lubricant around the two o-rings on the cowl. This will make it easier to insert the cowl, and make it easier to separate them when the bulb burns out. When you insert the cowl into the base, excess grease will come out. Wipe it off with a rag, but be aware that more will seep out over time and you will end up with a strip around the crease between the two pieces. It’s worth having the stripe. 2. To remove the cowl from the base, a) position the first strap wrench oriented so you’re pulling backwards towards you to engage the wrench, but don’t pull it yet. (I use Par 38 housings so 4″ won’t fit. 4″ might be good for par 30 or par 20). b) Position the strap just behind crease. c) Position the other strap wrench oriented so you’re pushing away from your body to engage the wrench. Put it as close to the crease between the cowl and base as possible without covering it. Now, each strap wrench should be on either side of the crease. d) If you have a helper, have him steady the base as you move to the next step. e) Push the handle of the wrench forward away from your body and use the same amount of force to pull the wrench on the base towards your body. Using equal amounts of pressure at the same time will stop the lamp from moving and cracking the mounting rod. f) Once you get the cowl to let go of the base, keep pushing but start to add some outward angle to slowly pull the cowl from the base as you’re turning. Continue to apply equal pressure to the base handle that you’re pulling. The o-ring grease should be helping you push to turn and angle away from the base. g) place the cowl with the lens down on a clean flat surface, so dirt doesn’t get on the o-rings. h) Change the bulb. i) wearing a silicone or latex glove, put another generous bead of o-ring grease all the way around the o-rings. Repeat the above as necessary. It’s worth going through this because I’ve never found a better waterproof Par 38 lamp holder.

The Novo garden spotlight was just as advertised. Durable Aluminum casing, easily adjustable, and with a glass lens to protect the bulb and keep the unit waterproof. It is the same light I have used successfully before and is value priced (similar lights can cost double or triple the cost). My only qualification concerns the fact that the lens, if subjected to irrigation spray can coat over with CaCO and it is hard to clean. Also, the Aluminum case will oxidizes over time and become difficult to maintain (to separate parts, change the bulb, and clean) – consider coating all fasteners (screws) and removable part interfaces with silicon grease.

Follow-up: After 6 months, the bulb burned out and when I removed the water shield, the shield water gasket stuck to the housing and broke – the gasket is NOT very sturdy. I contacted the manufacture and they promptly replaced the broken part, plus a spare – great warranty service. I suggest that you use a LED flood, so that it won’t need replacing that often,

These lights are an amazing value. I don’t know how they can sell them for this price. They are heavy gauge metal. They accommodate a standard LED bulb so you may not have to change bulbs for years. They are very waterproof with double rubber O rings (use petroleum jelly for further seal assurance). If you are placing them in the ground it would be best to buy a chamber kit, to go below grade, to keep the junctions high and dry.You may have to spray joint with WD40 to open the light bulb chamber the 1st time. They may be listed as bronze but they read as black. Be sure to check the dimensions of the light. I assumed they would be small and unobtrusive because of the price but they are large which is fine with me.

Spend more money if you want but outside lights do not last forever. I have been buying these lights for 5 years now. They have a tight O ring that seals out the water. They won’t stand up to Hurricanes like Irma. I anticipated the problem and order 8 replacement lights days before the storm. I only lost 3 of the lights out of 16. Don’t buy the really expensive alternatives, these work great.