Suncast BMS2500 Horizontal Storage Shed

Excellent pool storage unit. Great price and very easy to put together. A total of 1.5 hours…and I took my time.

1. Note all the major sections.
2. Flooring…note the slots and grip sections. I used the palm of my hand to move the sections into place. Make sure you have a wall or post to provide leverage.
3. Flooring-note slots sections.
4. All 4 sections into place with set screws installed.
5. Set Screws are plastic and mesh well with the units back wall.
6. Front doors and hinges. Slide easily…
7. Note that next 2 pics show the front door placement to help self-grip the hinges into place on the interior side.
8. Hinges from top-down.
9. The ceiling hinges are set. Follow directions and will work easily.
10. The storage containers top is in place with metal hinges in place to screwed in. All screws for the top are provided and are self-tapping into the plastic.
11 & 12. Easy installation of units lift prop rod to help hold top open.
13. The unit completed with storage interior showing.
14. Completed unit-exterior shot. The level is 48″ high. Used for perspective.

Good Luck!

This is a very nice storage unit. Directions on assembly was a little confusing at times but able to eventually figure out. Problem is item is not tall enough to fit a 96 height trash can completely with lid all the way closed and not wide enough to fit two trash cans. I would recommend the larger unit unless your trash can is smaller. I had to keep the lid of my trash can open in order for it to fit and still doesn’t close completely on one side of can that’s higher. We cut part of the cardboard from box it came in to work as a top for garage can.

I bought this Suncast BMS2500 shed to use as a generator enclosure as seen in Youtube videos by others who have done it. I have an older edition of this Suncast Shed that has a curved front. I wanted the new model with the straight front as being more suitable for my planned use. The assembly instructions were pretty good. The biggest problem I had was trying to figure out exactly where to attach the steel channel bar for the underside of the roof. The picture in the instructions is hard to see exactly where it is supposed to be attached with the 7 screws called-for. The screw locations for some of the roof parts are indicated in the plastic with indentations, but not for attaching this channel. The instruction picture needs to have a blow-up of this detail. I think I got it attached in the proper place finally. You have to drill your own holes for the sheet metal screws for all places where screws into thin plastic are required. And be very careful not to over tighten them and strip the plastic. Steel sheet metal screws in thin plastic–not a good idea. The points where screws are required should have been moulded thicker.

The rear 90 degree corners of the box are thin plastic full height “hinges” that I expect are the weakest links in the structure. I fully expect them to fail early-on and require some sort of reinforcement of the back corners. It would have been much stronger if the corners were moulded into the panels. I expect that the mfger chose the hinge method to allow for packaging the parts in a thinner box by straightening the corners flat than would be required if the corners were moulded square. I used a heat gun to warm the plastic before bending the hinges in 45*F weather so they wouldn’t break.

The roof is is my biggest disappointment. Yes, it looks good with the moulded-in wooden shingle effect. It sheds the rain water off to the front when it is closed. But, I discovered that if the roof is opened with water on it, or in the rain, so that the bottom ends of the “shingles” are now pointing up (the shingles inverted) that the raised bottom ends now prevent the water from flowing off the back of the roof. The shingle ends direct the water to the left and right sides of the roof where it then runs around the roof’s side edges, flows under the roof side edges, (by surface tension) and drips on your stuff inside the shed. My older shed doesn’t have the shingle effect and raising the roof allows it to shed the water off the back (like a lean-to) with no dripping inside the shed. I’ll need to devise some sort of drip edge to solve the problem with the “shingled” roof. I will update this review with pictures of how I do it.

The rest of the assembly went fairly well. I needed a rubber mallet to drive the panels to lock them into the base, as is mentioned in the instructions.

I guess it took me about three hrs to do it alone where two people are recommended in the instructions. I could do another in less than an hour, so the learning curve is fast.

First: I really like this shed– except that it’s totally screwed up. (I know. Hear me out.)

The top blew right off in a strong wind. Came right off the hinges, screws came right out of the plastic. Somehow it still manages to be functional for now, but it’s not right at all. You HAVE to put something through the lock or the top can blow off. I did not want to lock up my garbage… how silly. I’ve put in a message with Suncast’s customer service requesting a new top and will update with what they do.

Aside from that glaring problem, it’s a very good shed. Holds my big garbage cans just fine and everything but the lid feels sturdy and looks nice.

Update: They won’t send me a new top unless I can find my dated receipt AND a warranty card or front of the user’s manual. (?! Why? The receipt should certainly be enough.) I didn’t save either of those things after I saw that it was set up and looked fine. Huge disappointment.

Update #2: Wait, no. Even if I find my receipt AND warranty card AND user’s manual, they still won’t send me a replacement top because they say it’s “weather related.” WIND. Not a hurricane, not a tornado, but wind. Apparently I’m not allowed to use this shed when it’s windy. ALSO– the top is now warping. All four corners are turned upward, allowing bugs to get in. Keep in mind I’m in NY, my property is shaded, and it’s been a mild summer. Crazy. Newer reviews on other sites mention the same problem with the top warping over time. I removed another star for this.

Not difficult to assemble. But be sure to look closely at page 10, part DD – this is what it looks like assembled; the parts are actually two cream colored parts that look somewhat like a question mark or a “C” with a tag.they are assembled to the lid in step 25 & 26, It would have been better if they showed a picture of the parts unassembled. Also it was not clear where item J attached to the lid, the diagram on page 29 is not clear – there are not pre-drilled holes, it screws in the front, opposite the holes where DD goes. I am 71 and assembled it myself. Their customer service is top notch; the last CSR I talked with had actually assembled one, herself, and was able to explain how part DD goes together. Like most of their products, it is functional and looks fine.